secondhand september

Secondhand September: the co-dependency of fast fashion and secondhand fashion by Nina Gbor

It's Secondhand September again this year which feels a little redundant for me because almost everyday has been a "secondhand September" day for me since I was a kid! As a matter of fact, about 99% of my extensive, eclectic wardrobe is secondhand.

Nevermind though because now that the world is finally catching on to the glory of preloved clothing, we have to keep the momentum going! Secondhand September gets bigger every year. So here's my all secondhand and thrifted ensemble: a colourful long coat, a pink dress, a pink bag, red sunglasses and ivory-coloured boots!

According to thredUP's 2022 Resale Report:

  • 70% of consumers say it’s easier to shop secondhand now than it was 5 years ago.

  • Resale is expected to grow 16 times faster than the broader retail clothing sector by 2026.

  • The global secondhand apparel market will grow 127% by 2026 – 3X faster than the global apparel market overall!

On paper this is great news because secondhand is more 'sustainable' than new (fast) fashion. However for something to be secondhand, it has to be new first. Over 100 billion garments are still being manufactured each year and approximately 84% of it is still going to landfill in spite of the rise in secondhand fashion sales.

It's so cool to see so many people who would never wear preloved hoping onto this wagon. However, it's not sustainable, even for a thriving 'sustainable' secondhand market if over 100 billion garments are still being manufactured to cater for the secondhand market.

Retail brands being aware of the popularity of preloved, use the secondhand selling trend to justify their overproduction. As in, they can keep over producing because their customers will resell.

We have to get off this (secondhand) fashion TRENDmill (a phrase I made up) by quitting overconsumption of retail fashion in the first place. There's already an abundance of clothes on the planet including vintage! But we need to remember the garment workers who make these garments and insist that brands pay garment workers liveable wages with decent quality of work life, so that workers are not left out in the cold when we stop overconsuming fashion.

The first step is demanding full transparency of brands' supply chain through laws. Then adding laws that ensure liveable wages, equity, redundancy packages and additional support for workers. Big brands can afford it.

Secondhand September by Nina Gbor

Secondhand monochrome outfit.

Secondhand monochrome outfit.

I chose these monochrome secondhand looks to herald the start of Spring here in the merry land of Oz (Australia) and to also mark the beginning of this year’s annual Second Hand September campaign by Oxfam, UK. I’ve been shopping secondhand since I was a kid, long before sustainable fashion was a movement and before it was seen as cool to shop secondhand. I started my career in sustainable fashion career years ago by styling glamourous secondhand pieces on Instagram to inspire people to take out the stigma of wearing used clothes. It thrills me that the mainstreams world has finally embraced it and campaigns like this one help further normalise wearing used clothes.  

Monochrome outfit restyled to look casual using a t-shirt, white sneakers and crossbody bag.

Monochrome outfit restyled to look casual using a t-shirt, white sneakers and crossbody bag.

The purpose is to give clothes a longer life by promoting the use of secondhand shopping and donating. The goal is to promote clothing waste reduction to landfill, reduce fashion’s impact on the climate crisis.  87% of all unwanted textiles are sent to landfill or incinerated while 12% is recycled mechanically by being broken down into fibre, rags or material for insulation. Only about 1% is chemically recycled back to reusable raw materials. The fashion industry is partially responsible for the climate crisis. 95% of textile waste can be reused or recycled. Buying and donating secondhand clothes gives them a longer life by delaying or stopping them from ending up in landfill. This slows down the consumption of fast fashion which contributes to protecting the planet, its people and reducing fashion’s contribution to climate change. 

And by shopping secondhand, we’re reinvesting money into vital work of charity shops like reducing poverty and other worthy causes like inequality and illnesses. 

How Secondhand September works? Throughout September, buy only secondhand clothes online (if you need to shop) or in your local op shop. And also donate clean, quality items to op shops/thrift stores. And then share your one-of-a-kind finds in your socials with the hashtag #SecondHandSeptember.

Smart casual look using square pattern monochrome jacket.

Smart casual look using square pattern monochrome jacket.

STYLING

About 99% of my large wardrobe is secondhand. I chose these monochrome, Audrey Hepburn-60s inspired ensembles with a kind of 'je ne sais quoi' vibe to them. I’ve used a monochrome rah-rah skirt, vintage hat and tan belt to create a glamourous and sophisticated, the reused the 3 pieces to create a casual look with sneakers, a t-shirt and a few more pieces. 

Restyling interchangeable pieces in your closet to create different outfits makes your wardrobe far more versatile which can minimise your temptation to buy more clothes and lead to less fashion waste going to landfill.

 ♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Are style and verbal communication two sides of the same coin? by Nina Gbor

eco styles nina gbor style communication eco fashion 1

I was ruminating on verbal communication and it suddenly struck me how much communicating with our words is so similar to communicating with our personal style. Whether it’s professional or personal interactions, the need for authenticity has never been stronger. Moreover, communicating in these two ways can be uplifting or destructive.

They might seem like random and disparate elements, but you can draw parallels between your words and your style when you look at them from the same angles. With these two aspects, the idea is to ensure our communication has a more positive effect. I often write about style so this time we’ll look at these parallels more through the lens of verbal communication.

It’s usually more straightforward when we communicate with our words. However, even though we don’t realise it, we communicate with our clothes too. Experts say within the first few seconds of meeting you, people form a long-lasting first impression. And your outfit plays a big role in this because it’s communicating something about you.

You know the saying, ‘if you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all’? (They probably should have put that in the fine print when social media was invented.) The more I think about it though, another concept hits home which is if you don't really mean what you say then you probably shouldn’t say it at all. Purposeless and excessive talking can sometimes either be needlessly time-consuming or can cause miscommunications. On the other hand, when communication is born out of purpose, it can be healthy and more constructive.

Translate this notion into a clothing personal style context and it might sound like, ‘if you don’t need it, then don’t buy it.’ Garments that don’t reflect your personality, lifestyle, character or body shape should have no business on your body because they can miscommunicate who you are and present a false impression. Personal style that stays true to who we really are can bring about harmony within ourselves and communicate the right signals about us. Much like using excessive words, buying too many clothes because they’re trendy or affordable causes waste which is neither good for you nor the environment. Simply put, don’t waste your words and don’t waste fashion.

Letting all your communication resonate and align with your inner truth, will very likely equate to speaking less. And this might not be a bad thing. Social norms are designed in such a way that we’re expected to fill the air with words all the time. Otherwise, we might be doomed to go through dreadful and painfully awkward moments of silence. We’ve all experienced situations where we may have felt pressure to converse when in fact, we didn’t have anything to say. A simpler example is when we utter the word, ‘thanks’. Do you really mean it when you say it, or does it just mindlessly slip through your lips? In other words, do you genuinely feel a sense of appreciation when you use it?

Speaking mostly with intention and purpose is a powerful stance that gives your words more weight and value. So that when you do speak, there’s more effectiveness and hopefully an upbuilding quality to conversation. For this reason, perhaps an awkward silence need not be awkward after all. What if we turned those awkward silences to golden moments of connection where we’re comfortable enough to be present with each other in our silence? What if in these moments we turned the vibe from awkward to chill by smiling more, showing empathy and kindness even with our eyes? This should be a mood. I reckon it’ll feel strange at first. But it’s okay because we’ll get to listen more and add to our wisdom. The effort will be worth the reward of feeling a better sense of balance and alignment both internally and with the outside world. This could mean less pressure, less anxiety and more authenticity.

In the language of style, intention and purpose look like deliberately wearing clothes that express yourself as opposed to following a trend because you feel you have to. The pressure to dress for your age or peer group can conflict with how we actually mean to present ourselves. This can feel awkward and people can sense it. What if we ignored peer and overconsumption trends in favour of a personalised wardrobe that was almost as unique as a fingerprint? Much like those golden moments of silence I described earlier, it would mean feeling less pressure to conform to a mere social expectation. So, whether it's your words or your style, let your communication have meaning and purpose. They can both have tremendous value if applied in the right way.

Authenticity stems from letting go of the fear of opposing norms and expectations for the sake of just being yourself. Once we’re able to navigate the waters of everyday life without the social pressure to say meaningless words for the sake of it, we’ll have more peace. Likewise, when we stop acquiring excessive amounts of clothing that does not always represent us, we minimise ecological problems.

Be it through style or words, our communication has the power to spread harmony or cause pain and disaster for ourselves and others. Therefore, communicating authentically might just be the superpower that brings more fulfilment into our lives.

red vintage skirt patchwork gbor 2

STYLING

The black and gold military jacket paired with the red VW print top and red vintage patchwork skirt is a tailored piece over a playful outfit. Finished off with a pair of mint sneakers. Might be fair to say it expresses a playful nature coupled with a formal streak? What do you think?

Outfit sourced from:

Black & Gold Military Jacket - Marketplace

Red VW Print Top - South Melbourne Community Chest Op Shop

Red Vintage Patchwork Skirt - Red Cross Op Shop

♥ Nina Gbor

The perks of secondhand fashion (from a lifelong fashionista) by Nina Gbor

Eco styles, nina gbor, secondhand september eco stylist 1

I’ve been wearing secondhand clothes since before I can remember. First, it was through hand-me-downs from my brothers during my childhood tomboy days. Later in my teenage years, it evolved to crafting my own personal style using the super eclectic range of clothes in thrift stores. It was a rare and unique opportunity to find my passion at an early age, playing dress-up by mixing vintage and trendy pieces. I loved secondhand shopping and styling so much that I built a career on it!

Even with all the style and excitement, I got from secondhand shopping, it took years for me to publicly come out as a secondhand fashionista. It was social taboo because of the stigma attached to it like the perception of dirty, mouldy clothing and the idea that it was only for poor people. Fortunately, this stigma has shifted, and secondhand fashion is becoming popular and even more fabulous.

Chessboard skirt monochrome fashion sustainable style 2

One of the most surprising things I discovered about secondhand fashion is that it teaches you to figure out who you are and helps you appreciate yourself. As opposed to following fashion trends, selecting pieces to form a cohesive wardrobe from a plethora of clothes from multiple fashion eras and diverse cultures naturally makes you dig a little deeper beyond the surface to figure out who you are and what you want to express in your style. Eventually, I discovered a few more perks to this wonderful world of secondhand.

1. Social sustainability – Majority of the people who make our clothes are women in poorer countries, mostly in Asia and Africa. They are exploited because they are not paid fair, liveable wages where they can afford the basic life essentials such as healthcare, education and adequate food for themselves and their families. This happens despite working 12 – 16 hours a day. Buying secondhand sends a message to brands that we will stop buying their clothes when they are exploiting garment workers. It’s important that we inform these brands and urge them to pay liveable wages so that the workers do not end up unemployed.

2. Environmental sustainability – Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. About 80 - 150 billion new garments are produced worldwide each year, more than double what was made in the year 2000. Of the garments made each year, 85% ends up in landfill or incinerated. Most of this pollution happens during manufacture and disposal.  Secondhand shopping reduces reliance on raw materials, chemical procedures and fashion waste to landfill which all contribute to environmental damage. A circular economy with secondhand is a much better way to go.

3. It’s more affordable – Secondhand is such a great option for your savings and when you’re on a budget. However, considering the vast amount of environmental damage that fashion is responsible for, it’s essential to bear this in mind so that we prevent overconsumption of secondhand fashion. In a previous article, I explained in more detail why secondhand fashion is not about being cheap.  

4. Self-empowerment - I alluded to this earlier when I talked about knowing and expressing yourself in your style. Secondhand can be a relatively quicker and easier way to glide on the path of inner growth and self-discovery. If you choose not to follow fashion trends that have been dictated, you’ll realise your personality, goals, character or lifestyle will be the tools you use when you’re choosing your pieces. It can strengthen your self-image and instil a stronger sense of confidence.    

5. Unique personal style - Needless to say, shopping secondhand means your style is likely to be authentic and different from the usual. If you value individuality when it comes to your wardrobe and outside the box fashion styles then secondhand is your new (or existing) best friend.

This month, Oxfam UK is running a SecondHand September campaign where they’re inspiring people to say no to new clothes for 30 days #SecondHandSeptember. In the UK, 13 million items of clothing end up in landfill every week. In Australia, 6,000 kilos of textile waste ends up in landfill every ten minutes. Oxfam’s challenge is a fun opportunity to help reduce fashion waste by fully immersing yourself in secondhand fashion if you haven’t done so already. To find sources for secondhand clothing that are local to you, you can search online for clothes swaps, thrift stores, markets and wardrobe rental/hire platforms. Here are a few online platforms: Yordrobe, EkoluvDepopEtsyCarousellPoshmark, Marketplace and Beyond Retro.

red vintage clutch eco styles polka dot top gbor 3

STYLING

With this ensemble, I went for a mixed pattern, monochrome look using a staple tan waist belt to break the monotone pattern. Finished the look with leopard-print stilettos. I added the vintage, red clutch bag for a bright colour pop. The standout features of the outfit are the ruched sleeves on the polka dot top and the monochrome chessboard pattern on the skirt because it demands your attention. When you’re styling yourself, choose pieces and combinations that make sense to you and make you feel good.

Outfit sourced from:

Polka Dot Top - Savers Australia Op Shop

Monochrome Chessboard Skirt – Marketplace

Tan Belt – Noffs Op Shop

Red Vintage Purse - Marketplace

Leopard-print Stilettos – A wardrobe staple 

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles