Ethical Consumption vs Retail Therapy

Preloved dress and sandals from Australian Red Cross op shop.

This week I’m giving a talk about ethical consumption at the Australian Red Cross with REDxYOUTH. The preparation got me thinking about my own consumption behaviour. So, it’s time for me to come out with an open secret; I have way too many clothes. For all the minimalist wardrobe techniques that I teach, workshops on capsule wardrobes that I run and clothes swaps that I organise and clients whose wardrobes I help reduce, I still have a really big wardrobe. 

I started op shopping and eco styling at age fifteen. My love for one-off vintage clothes, rare and unusual pieces made me a collector of fine garments that spark tremendous joy in myself and others. It’s been somewhat of a sacred art, with style being like a religion to me. Scouring the racks at vintage stores, op shops, clothes swaps and preloved markets is a rite that I’ve been performing faithfully. Fortunately, I’ve been able to alchemise this practice into a purposeful career in sustainable fashion. 

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries. Its greenhouse gas emission levels have recently surpassed all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Globally we’re consuming about 80 billion brand new garments every year which is 400% more than what we consumed just twenty years ago. Australia happens to be the second-largest consumer of new textiles after the US. According to United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE), World Resources Institute (WRI), in total, up to 85% of textiles go into landfills each year. A massive part of the environmental degradation happens with fashion manufacture. For instance, the United Nations Environmental Programme says the fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide. It takes about 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. That’s more than enough for one person to drink eight cups per day for 10 years! 

On the other side of it, we can afford to be so wasteful because clothes are cheaper than ever. Majority of the people who make our clothes (mostly women) are exploited with a plethora of human rights abuses ranging from super low wages to inhumane work conditions. Workers in developing countries can be forced to work sixteen-hour days for as little as $6 a day which does not come anywhere close to a liveable wage. 

Our modern pattern of fashion consumption is a vicious, short-lived cycle of buy - wear once, twice or not at all - bin it - then buy new all over again. I believe the cycle is driven by trends. Trends are powerful because from birth, we’re conditioned to follow trends. For many decades, possibly even longer, fashion has cleverly advanced its skills in making the masses believe you have no value unless you wear their brand or follow trends. It’s one of the very things that makes us feel like we’re not enough, then promises happiness and acceptance if we buy. All the while, fast fashion brands amass billions of dollars on the back of exploitation and untold levels of environmental damage. What’s also sad is that this fashion consumption model does not seem to be giving us consumers any true, lasting or genuine happiness. This then begs the question; why the heck are we still doing this?!

My recommendation is that it’s time for us to ‘get off the fashion trendmill’. Individual preference and sustainable acquisition methods should be the premise for consuming clothes, not fashion trends. This is the key for buying less, choosing well and making our clothes last much longer. Preloved (secondhand) clothing keeps garments in a circular economy. This delays (or prevents)garments going to landfill. Even though about 97% of my wardrobe is preloved, and I tend to cherish pieces for a long time, I still sometimes wonder if I’m consuming too much. On the other hand, it’s also my career, therefore, these are tools of my trade. As a would-be fashion consumer, I would feel enticed to buy the latest shiny trend to feel validated. However, in my world of preloved shopping, even though it’s more ethical, it used to be fuelled by the need to fill a void like loneliness. It was also a form of escapism from a trauma that I was experiencing. Later, I became more conscious of my personal thought patterns that were driving the behaviour. I guess it’s up to each of us to introspect with brutal honesty to explore why we’re consuming so much in order to heal those parts of ourselves and shift the behaviour of overconsumption. What comes up for you when you think deeply about why you shop so much?

STYLING

This week, in honour of Australian Red Cross and all of the incredible humanitarian, aid and community services they have provided globally since 1914, I am wearing a dress and beige sandals from The Red Cross op shop. This 1950s vintage-style replica dress has a lovely pattern, laced in with side and lower panels of glorious, vivacious art drawings of on-the-vine oranges and flowers. I paired it with beige strappy, chunky heeled sandals I also found at the Red Cross op shop on a different visit. In some photos I’m wearing a charcoal preloved Miu Miu designer light mohair jumper I found at another op shop. I’m wearing a petticoat underneath to give it the voluminous 1950s full skirt look. 

ReStyling tips

If you own a patterned or multi-coloured summer dress like this, you can wear it like I did with a petticoat and dressed-up shoe to look elegant. Otherwise, try any of these tips:

1. If you love pattern clash (like me), try wearing a top, button down shirt tied at the front in leopard print, zebra print or polka dot over the top half of the dress. The key is to make sure at least one of the colours of the top matches at least one colour on the bottom half of the dress. This makes the colour-pattern interaction look balanced. Otherwise it might look too out of sorts.

2. Go casual with no petticoat and a pair of flat sandals. You can even wear a plain, basic t-shirt of a with a colour that matches the bottom half of the dress. 

Outfit sourced from: 

Multicolour Summer Dress: Red Cross Op Shops

Beige Chunky Heel Sandals: Red Cross Op Shops

Charcoal Miu Miu Jumper: The Green Shed Underground Op Shop

Photography by Brunela Fenalte.

♥ Nina Gbor

Secondhand fashion; a secret weapon for self-empowerment

The stigma of wearing secondhand clothing is fading so fast, that fast fashion might become obsolete in several years. According to ThreadUp’s 2019 Resale Report, the value of the secondhand market, which is currently worth $24bn (£18bn) is expected to reach $51 billion (£39bn) in 2023.  

I’ve been op shopping and eco styling since the age of fifteen. Back then, it was seen as taboo. Kids would make fun of me if they knew my wardrobe came out of secondhand (preloved) stores. The old and outdated perception about preloved clothing sees it as something for a ‘certain’ type of person, something dirty and only for people who can’t afford retail prices. For fear of being bullied, I stayed in the closet about where my clothes came from, even though I fully, albeit secretly relished the unique look that op shopping gave me. It took several years before I mustered the courage to come out as a preloved stylista. Fortunately, it’s fast becoming the cool thing to do.

My style always made me stand out and I fully embraced the feeling of individuality. My outfit spoke (and still speaks) volumes whenever I walked into a room. In a world where I never felt seen, heard, valued, included in mainstream media or pretty much anywhere else, having the chance to express my persona through of a vast, eclectic range of exclusive garments felt, in some way, like I had found my voice. Even though it wasn’t immediately verbal (that came later). It was my way of loudly expressing myself without metaphorically feeling like I would have to scream to be heard. It allowed me to be seen, which subsequently opened up possibilities for me to be heard a little more often. The way I combined colours, patterns, vintage styles with contemporary styles garnered people’s attention. The intention was not really to wear clothes that got attention. I only wore outfits to please myself alone. However, it made people curious about me, probably because they struggled to place me into any one stereotypical box. That suited me just fine because like most people, I hate being labelled or put in a box. Regardless, I was happy to share my affection for preloved styling and knowledge of sustainability with them.

For the last four years, I’ve been posting preloved outfits on my platforms to help shift the negative perceptions of secondhand, by styling them elegantly. Part of my goal in all of this has been to help people see preloved garments in a new light; as something sophisticated, stylish, aspirational, creative and even enigmatic. In addition, I hope to inspire more people to fully embrace preloved clothing and experience for themselves the type of style magic that’s conjured whenever you wear something rare and exclusive. 

Today’s outfit is no exception. I’m featuring a black silk preloved dress that has a 50s style cut. I found nearly all the pieces of this ensemble in various op shops. The silk dress from a Salvation Army store in the U.K. The black luxury designer Salvatore Ferragamo bag is from Pandoras op and I found the faux fur scarf in a Salvos op shop. Preloved clothes contributed to my self-empowerment but, in the many pathways that exist, I think when there’s a sincere higher purpose or calling as the basis, the journey to self-empowerment is so much more authentic and powerful.

According to Bloomberg, the luxury fashion resale market is poised to expand by an average of 12% per year through 2021, compared to about 3% for the primary luxury market. As fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world, the rise of preloved is definitely a win for the environment. For me, it’s helped me win some self-love, respect, confidence and has opened up opportunities for me to use my voice for positive change.

STYLING

I decided to go ‘Gatsby’ on this black silk number by wearing the luxurious, glamorous faux fur scarf with a luxurious black and gold purse and some stiletto heels. To give it the 1950s touch, I wore a petticoat to puff out the skirt – lower half-section. 

Styling tip - A black dress is too easy to style up or down. Just switch the glamourous accessories for simple, everyday ones. Have fun mixing different accessories and pieces with the frock to create alternative looks. Make it work.

Sourced from:

Black Silk Dress: The Salvation Army Charity Shop, UK

Black Salvatore Ferragamo Purse: Pandoras at O’Connor Preloved Op Shop

Brown Faux Fur Scarf: Salvos Op Shop

Photography by Angela Elgiva. 

♥ Nina Gbor

Grace Kelly

I’ve talked abundantly about how my love for style came from watching the icons of the silver screen such as Audrey Hepburn. Today, on what would have been Grace Kelly’s 90th birthday, I’m paying homage to her as another style icon from Hollywood’s golden era who has had major influence on my love for 1950s style. Due to Grace Kelly’s elegant style, her talent, her charm and well, her ‘gracefulness’ amongst other things, history might forever continue to regard her as an inimitable, mythical creature.

Grace Kelly’s iconic outfit in the 1954 classic film, Rear Window was designed by Edith Head.

In case you don’t know about this legend, Grace Kelly was born on November 12th, 1929 in Philadelphia, USA. She had a short-lived, yet powerful Hollywood career that earned her A-list status in the 1950s with a legacy that loomed larger than life. Grace played her first major role as a supporting character in the 1952 classic film, High Noon with Gary Cooper. With several roles in Hitchcock films and alongside other silver screen greats like and James Stewart, Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra in films like Dial M for Murder (1954), Rear Window (1954), To Catch a Thief (1955) and High Society (1956), it was her performance in The Country Girl (1954) that won her an Oscar in 1955 for Best Actress. Grace Kelly soon went from Hollywood Princess to becoming the Princess of Monaco as she traded film scripts for tiaras when she married Monaco’s Crown Prince Rainier in 1956. She passed away in 1982.  

Grace Kelly during her 1955 Academy Award win for Best Actress.

Even though style is very important to me, I’ve always believed that grace is really what makes the person. As we strive to perfect our outward, physical appearance, I believe it's our responsibility to work on ourselves internally, in order to evolve to the best version of ourselves. When I think of the word grace, I think of qualities like courteousness, integrity, goodwill and dignity. From my experience, the hallmark for eliciting positive outcomes in most circumstances comes from having grace. In her life, Grace Kelly appears to have lived up to her name by exuding much grace (and style) in nearly everything she did. And she did it splendidly with grace. And most things she did, she did them gracefully. It appears that grace made that woman.

Grace Kelly’s glamorous, classic style consisted of many ball gowns and formal pieces. So, I decided to pay tribute using a 1950s pink vintage chiffon ball gown I found in a vintage store, four years ago. Grace Kelly was the first thing that came to mind when I spotted this dress. It reminded me of her blue chiffon dress in the film To Catch a Thief. 

Grace Kelly’s blue ball gown in To Catch a Thief (1955).

STYLING

In staying true to Grace Kelly style, I simply wore the dress with pearls but ommitted the white gloves.

The Restyle 

As a sustainable stylist, I needed to find an alternative way to wear this dress for a different, more casual occasion. This is crucial to reducing textile waste to landfill, as it lets you re-use a garment that might otherwise rarely or never get used again. There are several things I could have done with it but I went the simple route of wearing a denim jacket over a ball gown. The juxtaposition of something so casual as denim with such a formal piece is a marriage that actually worked in this instance.

Styling tip

Try this basic technique of wearing something casual like denim over one of your more formal or dressy pieces to make it casual. You can also try wearing a t-shirt over it or a sleeved, button-down shirt, tied at the front.  The intention is to help you get more use out of your clothes so that you look stylish and love your clothes longer. It’s a phenomenal way to make your wardrobe sustainable.

Outfit sourced from:

Pink Vintage Ball Gown: April’s Caravan Vintage Boutique

Denim Jacket: Salvos Stores Op Shop

Nina Gbor’s photography by Brunela Fenalte.

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Style values

Outfit by Pure Pod: The Pink Vintage Tie Top is made of cotton voile, produced with natural dyes and block printed (size 6). Made to order, $155. The Rana Skirt is a printed cotton, tucked with zip opening and waistband (size 8). Made to order, $190. Both pieces are GOTS Organic certified and made in Australia.

I yearn for a time when ethical fashion and fair trade are the main options every time we’re purchasing something, instead of just being a small, niched category. For this balance to happen, it’s crucial that we support and celebrate the ethical fashion brands, like Pure Pod, who go the extra mile to ensure, to the best of their ability that fair wages and minimal environmental damage are a priority during production, consumption and disposal. This means that the intention for this to happen is designed into the product from inception. These are the brands who are happy to be open and transparent about their supply chains. 

This is not an easy feat for any company to accomplish, much less a small label with limited capital. Not all slow / ethical fashion companies are small businesses. Regardless of size, I feel like we have to give them accolades for clinging to the right values through thick and thin. I’m so proud of not only the work that they produce but also making so many sacrifices to show the world a better way of manufacturing. I’m so grateful they exist as living examples of what’s possible for our future. Here’s to all the pioneers of a healthier, happier fashion future!

Pure Pod’s Westwood Bodice Top with GOTS certified organic denim. Line fitted, contrast textile on both sides (size 6-8). $190. Made in Australia. Worn with the Rana Skirt.

Whenever possible it’ll really go a long way if we make ethical labels a top priority whenever we’re shopping. Every purchase makes a difference. These are some of the actions that will help turn the tide to make sustainable fashion mainstream. 

STYLING

The Look: I wore the Rana Skirt first with the pink Vintage Tie Top and then again with the black Westwood Bodice. To emphasise the elegance, I chose some gold, sequinned heels and then finished the look with a black clutch bag with embellishments. 

Styling tip: The multiple colours of the skirt give it a diverse range of colour options to match with. However, the style of the skirt limits it to a more formal yet funky look in my opinion. Therefore, a skirt like this even though it can go with many colours, will need an elegant top or something in that arena.

Sourced from:

Pink vintage tie top: Pure Pod (Made to order - $155)

Rana skirt: Pure Pod - (Made to order - $190)

Westwood bodice: Pure Pod (Made to order - $190)

Gold sequinned stilettos: Canberra Fashion Market

Black embellished clutch: Pandoras at O’Connor Preloved Fashion Op Shop

Photography by Bryant Evans

♥ Nina Gbor

Living your personal style

Whenever you have to follow a dress code that doesn’t authentically feel like ‘you’, you might feel a stronger sense of self when you can bring elements of personality into it. 

Case in point, this outfit. Dramatic, quirky and unusual pieces are how I express the creative and rebellious parts of myself that I don’t verbalise. Because I don’t have a different outlet for them, they manifest in my style.

When I used to work in an office, this kind of outfit was typically how I styled myself to look corporate; monochrome chess board top paired with a multi-coloured small-pattern pencil skirt, chocolate brown belt and geometric pattern stilettos. Most of this outfit is preloved/second-hand. 

I say this often, but I can’t emphasise this concept enough. I’m always flattered if someone likes my style, but I don’t encourage anyone to necessarily dress like me. As an unconventional stylist, I encourage you to find your own unique, individual form of self-expression through your style. 

When you cultivate your style wellbeing, you’ll have your own personal style formula, which will naturally find you using your clothes for longer periods of time because they look amazing on you. And they’ll also make you feel so damn good!

 STYLING

The look: My love for uncommon pieces was the attraction for buying this chess board statement piece. The pencil skirt, also patterned, works with the top because they have a strong black colour in them that connects. The stilettos also have lines that add to the thread of black colouring, bringing it all together. And the chocolate colour belt? Well, a bit of chocolate is always fun so why not?

Styling tip: If you have several seemingly random pieces in your closet, use the colour threading system I described to put pieces together that you wouldn’t normally wear together. The outcome? A range of new outfits created from multiple combinations in your closet. You can apply this principle to patterns or more plain clothing, office wear and other types of styles. 

Outfit sourced from:

Chess board top: ANU Outdoor Preloved Market (2017).

Patterned and multi-coloured pencil skirt: Salvation Army (Salvos) Op Shop (2016).

Chocolate brown belt: PDSA Op Shop, (UK, 2009).

Geometric pattern stilettos: From my wardrobe. 

Photos by Brunela Fenalte Photography.

♥ Nina Gbor