Staying off the fashion trendmill in Aztec

I NEVER follow fashion trends. I coined the phrase “Get off the fashion trendmill” to let my styling clients and workshop participants know it was okay to ignore fashion trends. The culture of following trends is one of the biggest contributors to fast fashion and fashion landfill waste. Plus, trends do not suit everyone. Instead, I encourage people to find style wellbeing. This means wearing clothes that make you happy and filling your wardrobe with pieces that suit your body, lifestyle, goals and personality.

Speaking of personality, this Aztec-pattern hoodie had me hooked from the moment we met in a Salvation Army op shop. There’s nothing else like it in my wardrobe, plus it’s a major diversion from the typical 50s style dresses that grace my closet. Yet, something about it connected to the less visible quirky side of my personality that was clearly screaming to get out. I had the same love-at-first-sight when I spotted these denim, rhinestone, stiletto knee-high boots at a preloved store.

No matter how much people try to influence how you should look, you know yourself better than anyone else. Following trends or styles that don’t align with who you are can create some inner turmoil, not to mention fashion disasters. You’re likely to have better mental and emotional health by staying true to who you are and wearing clothes that align with your truth. It’s great for emotional balance and growing your confidence.

STYLING

The look: I’m wearing the hoodie with a black long-sleeve thermal, black leggings and denim knee-high stiletto boots. This is an everyday, casual Autumn/Winter look for me.

Style tip: A hoodie like this can typically be worn with jeans, shorts or even a straight knee-length skirt. Boots of this length and style will look nice with above-the-knee or knee-length skirts.

Outfit sourced from:

Aztec-pattern hoodie: Salvos Stores Op Shop

Denim boots: Gulia Preloved & Vintage Store, New Town, Sydney

Photos by Brunela Fenalte Photography

♥ Nina Gbor

Fashion and the environment

Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Majority of fashion’s environmental impact occurs during production. Whether the fabric is plant-based, animal-based or from crude oil, processes for conversion to fabric are environmentally intensive. Fashion consumption and disposal are also big contributors to environmental pollution.

Greenhouse Gas Emissions

The apparel and footwear industries are responsible for 8-10% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. And the climate effect of the fashion industry by the year 2030 is forecast to reach a near equivalent level with that of US’ current total annual greenhouse gas emissions (currently 4.9 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide).

The production, manufacture, transportation of millions of pieces of garments each year contributes to these high emission levels. In addition, countries powered by fossil fuels like Bangladesh, China and India are the biggest producers of apparel. To make matters worse, majority of modern clothing are made from petrochemical derivatives (polyester, nylon, acrylic) and require more energy-intensive processing that natural fibres (organic cotton, silk, wool, linen, cashmere, mohair).

Water Usage

When it comes to making textiles, a huge amount of water is used, For instance, it takes 2,700 litres to make one t-shirt! 20,000 litres of water is used to produce just 1 litre of cotton! The amount of water needed for growing cotton can lead to the risk of drought in some countries. An example is the Aral Sea which was once home to over 40,000 fishermen. Due to over-irrigation for cotton farming, the Aral Sea has become desert-like.

Water Pollution

Waste water containing toxic chemicals like lead, arsenic and mercury are pumped into the rivers and seas of the developing countries where they are produced from the factories. This is hazardous to the millions of people living in those areas as well as aquatic life.  From the seas, this toxicity eventually spreads round the world.

Toxic Chemical Pollution

Dyes, bleaches and other toxic chemicals are used in the production of clothing. These chemicals containing toxins, carcinogens and hormone disruptors remain on the clothing that we are sold in retail stores. Our skin is the largest organ of the body and the chemicals on our clothes can be absorbed through the skin, making this a real health hazard causing illness and potentially infertility. It’s advisable to wash all new clothes before wearing them.

The widespread use of chemicals, fertilisers and pesticides for cotton farming has been causing diseases and the early death of thousands of people for years in communities where they are used. In addition to soil degradation, massive freshwater bodies and the oceans have been polluted by these chemicals.

Microfibre (Plastic) Pollution

Synthetic fabrics (mostly plastic) are the most commonly used fabric in contemporary fashion. When washed, a polyester garment will shed 1,900 non-biodegradable microfibres that wash into the waters and eventually into the oceans. Microfibres constitute 85% of plastic pollution along shorelines. In addition to increasing oceanic plastic pollution, it’s a threat to aquatic life. Plastic absorbs chemicals. Small aquatic creatures eat the microfibres which eventually make their way up the food chain and onto our food plates, laced with carcinogenic chemicals. It’s best to opt for natural fabrics.

Soil Degradation

This is a huge environmental issue as it has an impact on both global food security and global warming. Healthy soil absorbs CO2 and it’s crucial for the ecosystem. Through the plentiful use of chemicals, deforestation and overgrazing of pastures from sheep and goats raised for wool production, the fashion industry has increased soil degradation.

Landfill Pollution

Currently we consume about 400% more clothing every year than we did 20 years ago with 80 billion new pieces every year, globally. In Australia, 85% of our new textiles end up in landfill every year and we throw out 6,000 kilos of fashion waste every 10 minutes.  This waste epidemic is because of fast fashion. Profit-driven fashion retailers use clever marketing for massive brainwashing so that in spite of having full wardrobes, shoppers feel they need to always have the latest trends. We can’t keep up with the cycle of trends, and nor can we consume at the rate at which we’re buying so we throw out many of our clothes. My solution; we need to GET OFF THE FASHION TRENDMILL and ignore the trend altogether.

Solutions

We’re beyond the point of needing positive change in this area. Whether or not you’re a follower of the latest trends, much of the stock in conventional retail stores are based on short fashion trends with synthetic fabrics that will be replaced by the next cycle in a small period of time.

Each garment has a story and a journey and it’s wonderful when you cherish it and look after your clothes for the long term. As a stylist, I recommend buying clothes that fit your colouring, body shape, personality and lifestyle instead of trends so that you love them for much longer. In all cases, natural fabrics are the best option. Three basic things you can do to build a sustainable wardrobe are

1. Before you buy, ask yourself if you really need it and how often you will use the garment. If it’s for one occasion, short term or just to feel good in the moment, consider, hiring or borrowing instead.  

2. Buy new from Ethical Labels. These are the brands that go far as they can to ensure everyone in the supply chain is paid a fair wage and minimal damage is done to the environment in manufacture and if possible, disposal. Use apps like Good on You to identify ethical brands.

3. Buy Preloved. Shop at op shops, markets, clothes swaps, garage sales, hand-me-downs, eBay, Carousell and other online second-hand platforms.

The Ethical Fashion Label

In this ethical fashion feature, I’m wearing a casual and a corporate outfit by my favourite sustainable fashion label, Pure Pod. As one of the pioneer brands on the scene long before ethical fashion was considered a thing, Pure Pod has been making beautiful designs with a passion for people and planet. Ethical fashion brands are in my opinion, the labels that should be mainstream, where we buy our new clothes from. They are slow fashion brands committed to Fairtrade, organic clothing, organic certifications, sustainable production, fair wages, decent work conditions, natural textiles, animal welfare and environmental consciousness.

With fashion being one of the most environmentally-damaging industries, it’s remarkable that the UN Sustainable Fashion Charter for climate action was launched in December 2018 at the COP24 climate conference. Initiated by the UN climate change secretariat, the climate for fashion charter was backed by Stella McCartney. It has 16 commitments for brands and organisations to adhere to for low-carbon production methods and for the elimination of fashion waste. So far, forty fashion brands have adhered to the charter.

With cheap fashion threatening the planet, the creation of the charter was an absolute necessity to reform the havoc that has been reeked by the industry. Some of it includes:

• water pollution

• soil contamination through agricultural pesticides

• landfill waste, toxic chemical and dyes during manufacture

• soil degradation

• deforestation

• drought from over irrigation.

More than twelve years before the arrival of the charter, Pure Pod has been striving to create a cleaner fashion industry and promote creative designs that have a story and strong identity behind them. Their clothes are made of natural, Certified organic fabrics, natural or low impact dyes and deadstock material.

They only work with businesses and companies who are tracing and checking their supply chains to make sure people and the environment are protected and looked after.

The environment is a huge factor throughout their sourcing, production and distribution processes. Disposal and waste management are even woven into their design process.

When you factor in all of these elements, it becomes clear that ethical clothing is not cheap. Even though we might be paying a lot more for an ethically-made item than a fast fashion item, we can rest assured that ethically-made items will outlast their fast fashion counterparts by many years. On that account, in the long run we’re getting a lot more value than what we paid for the garment. We won’t run the risk of buying something that will fade or disintegrate after the first wash.

The BMWi Blue dress

This beautiful BMWi Blue dress is made from bamboo velvet, in a shade of blue that I love.

The look: Lounging by the water, I chose to go barefoot with this one.

Style tip: If you own a dress like this, try wearing flat sandals or ballet flats for a casual look. For a night out, I’d opt for open-toe sandal heels.

Autumn/Winter: Certain styles of knee-high boots might work with this dress in colder seasons.

The Denim Banded Bee Dress

This denim Blue Banded Bee Dress is Australian made from Certified organic cotton denim indigo.  It has handmade crochet trims on the bodice to symbolise bees and an open back.

I paired the dress with Pure Pod’s pink and white 40’s inspired Vintage top. It’s vegetable- dyed, hand block printed and made from Certified organic cotton voile.

The Look: To give it a corporate look, I wore patent black court stilettos and a black handbag.

Styling tip: Wear the denim banded bee dress on its own, with a casual top or top with a unique pattern for versatility.

Outfits sourced from:

BMWi Blue dress: Pure Pod

Denim Banded Bee Dress: Pure Pod

40s inspired Vintage top: Pure Pod

Michael Kors patent black stilettos: The Green Shed Op Shop

Black handbag: Borrowed from a friend.

♥ Nina Gbor

Decolonise to Survive

With upcycling as a sustainable fashion technique, I was excited to feature upcycled designs made by YHI Creations. I love everything about them – from their ethos, originality, mission-driven innovations and philosophies to their very stylish and artistic redesigns.  Made from 95% recycled clothing, they produce conceptual aboriginal art imagery handcrafted by the founder, Ella Noah Bancroft. The imagery is sewn onto unique one-off vintage and preloved pieces. They also screen print on organic cotton, just like my t-shirt with the powerful message, ‘Decolonise to Survive’.

YHI’s phrase, ‘Decolonise to Survive’ is about looking at what in your own life has been colonised. It’s about taking back power through sovereignty and looking at how colonisation actually disempowers us all. It’s about reconnecting to our humanness.

YHI (pronounced Whee) is an Indigenous, Australian, ethical, culturally-innovative jewellery and clothing company. YHI is an Aboriginal word that comes from the Gamilaroi (Kamilaroi) nation. It translates to goddess of light and creation.

YHI can be described as an activist line that uses style and art to bring awareness to current political, social and environmental issues. YHI is about social change, creating a cause and spreading a message of unity regarding the fashion industry’s impact on the pollution of our planet, while sparking conversation about our own social structures. YHI wants to empower people to understand the effect their actions have on the environment so that people make more informed decisions when purchasing clothing, without having to compromise on their personal style. Ella believes connection to country starts with caring for country.

Ella Noah Bancroft, artist, designer and founder of YHI Creations.

Ella is a Bundjalung Artist. Her Indigenous heritage has been a major influence in the creation and execution of YHI. She has been inspired by the evolution of the rich culture embedded in our country that’s now over 60 thousand years old. She believes the Earth Cycle's survival is dependent upon our community embracing a more sustainable future. YHI shines a light on waste and recycling in a way that supports people to embrace change. This is why their products are designed to instigate a sustainable lifestyle through a shift in people’s awareness, thoughts and actions. Their mission is to change the way we see fashion and how we can take responsibility for our creations’ footprints. 

DECOLONISE TO SURVIVE

Ella coined the phrase ‘Decolonise to Survive’ from the realisation that the system does not work. With the rising rates of mental health and obesity levels, and with the amount of suicides our country faces each day, she needed to address the situation.

Ella believes the meaning behind the statement ‘Decolonise to Survive’ could be the key to our physiological success in social change by reconnecting to our humanness.

Decolonising is a direct link to regaining power of the mind and also shifting social change.  In order to regain the mind, we must decolonise it. Decolonising begins with looking at how we can stand together with a strong message, a unified message as Indigenous pioneers to reclaim personal and collective power and to inspire others to reclaim their power for the sake of all our future children.

STYLING

The Look: I love my “Decolonise to Survive” t-shirt. I paired it with a black layered tulle skirt, tan buckle belt, cream-colour panama hat and flat, tan sandals.

Styling tip: To me this is an everything t-shirt. Wear it with It jeans, pencil skirt, shorts - everything. Personally, I’d wear it with a long ball gown skirt and flat sandals.

Light Denim Fire Patch Jacket: Perfect match over the t-shirt.

Styling tip: This sort of jacket can go with almost anything in your Spring/Autumn wardrobe has the right colour pairing and isn’t too corporate.

Outfit sourced from:

T-shirt and jacket: YHI Creations

Black layered tulle skirt: PDSA Op Shop, Bristol, UK

Tan belt: Noffs Op Shop, Surry Hills, Sydney

Panama hat: Hand-me-down from a friend

Flat, tan sandals: Suitcase Rummage preloved market.

Photos by Brunela Fenalte Photography.

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles

Fashion, a feminine issue

Style. Sustainability. Positive change.

The key to social, economic and political growth of any society lies in bolstering female empowerment. Empowerment enables more women to enter leadership positions and broadens the scope for women’s voices to be heard. When women are empowered, their families, communities and even the nation benefits therefore, they are crucial to bringing positive change in the world. For instance, with better opportunities for work, education and business, women raise better families, have more educated children and there is a decline of poverty and disease. Herein lies the basis for societal progress and development. This is why fostering female empowerment is an integral part of Eco Styles.

The fashion industry is powered by approximately 60 million garment workers around the world and 80% of them are women. Majority of these women work in countries like Bangladesh, China, India, Cambodia, Indonesia and Vietnam with unfair wages so low that it keeps them stuck within a cycle of poverty. This is often in addition to being subjected to abuse, social injustices and horrific work conditions.

The collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh in April 2013 is considered the deadliest garment factory incident in history where approximately 1,138 garment workers were killed. Approximately 2,500 injured workers had to be rescued alive from the rubble. This incident shocked the world, brought more exposure to this issue and triggered the formation of global Fashion Revolution movement. The movement advocates for the fashion industry to operate in ways that value people, the environment and profit in equal measure.

The fashion and apparel industry make multi-billion dollar profits every year. A report by Deloitte Access Economics for Oxfam for Oxfam’s ‘What She Makes’ document, stated that only 4% of the retail cost of a garment goes to the garment worker of an average retail supply chain. That means for a $10 t-shirt, only 40 cents go to the worker. In countries like Bangladesh where the wages are even lower, the worker gets an average of 2%, which would come to just 20 cents on a $10 t-shirt. The inequality of unfair work compensation that these women experience is staggering. It would be easy for these brands to pay these women a living wage that would alleviate their poverty and enable them to have a decent life. The report goes further to say that even if big companies increased the retail price of clothing to pay workers a living wage, it would only amount to a 10% increase of 10 cents on a $10 t-shirt, making that t-shirt price $10.10.

Oxfam’s What She Makes report also states that from approximately 2013 to 2017, Australia’s fast fashion industry has grown by 21.5%. The revenue of some of these brands have been on the increase while one of them even doubled its profits during this period.

The garment industry has one of the most shocking examples of global inequality. A small number of people accumulate enormous wealth while millions of poverty-stricken workers work hard in long hours. A garment worker for instance will not make in a lifetime what the CEO of a major fast fashion brand makes in one year.

Brands are beyond capable of paying workers a living wage. Positive changes need to be executed to ensure that the women who make our clothes are treated with dignity. Beyond the notion that fair, liveable wages are a basic human right, the socioeconomic ramifications are huge. A living wage means workers and their families have enough food to eat and decent housing with sufficient space so that many people are not forced to live in one room. Living wages would also foster the ability to look after children, afford transportation, healthcare and education for themselves and their children. This will ultimately foster societal development.

Reversing this trend of inequality might serve as a benchmark for achieving positive change in other industries. Brands have the responsibility and the power to ensure a fair system and better quality of life for workers. Consumers also have power and agency to ensure that this change happens. Consumers can act in several ways:

1. Join the Fashion Revolution

2. Request fashion supply chain transparency from brands through social media and email.

3. Use ethical fashion apps and guides like Good on You and Baptist World Aid.

♥ Nina Gbor

Instagram: @eco.styles